Photos show
Box 1
M1, M2, S3 (on top of M1)
S4, S5, S6 (along back of box, but placed on their backside facing up)
T7, T8, cable to service disconnect.
T9, T10,

Cable ext

Box 2
Fuse, S11, S12, S13, S14, M15, M16
cable back to box 1.

Yeah, it was a learning curve. I’m glad I survived and am happy with the result. Now done 3500 miles without exploding

This is my old working doc for the BMS extensions. It’s pretty rough because it was only for my own consumption. Hopefully you can open ok.

But you can see the info for extending for modules 11 to 16.

Note I did a slightly odd thing, which makes sense to me. The halfway point should be after module 8. I kept the service disconnect there. But I actually added modules 9 and 10 into the same box #1 with 1 - 8. I wanted more weight and volume at the back.

Then modules 11 - 16 are box #2. The extensions of main HV and BMS are for these.

The voltage drop I get sometimes is at module 9, on the first cell after my cable extension.

I don’t have great photos but will add what I have.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/11N81NmytQjdLPmyjdVOE42CjKD0qh7wUAI3Jmo4JHCA/edit?usp=drivesdk

No, I’m sure it’s not a cell issue. Not possible to easily disprove it’s the cable without taking the car apart, but I know a similar situation has been mentioned elsewhere.

I haven’t checked recently, but last time I looked, the BMS extension cables they sell would not work with the 60 / 62kWh (same pack as far as I know but Nissan changed either the label or the BMS maximum at some point). The older 24 - 40 packs all had the same connectors. But the 60 has 3 different types depending on module size.

When I did my build, I collated everything from the entire internet (which wasn’t much) and dumped it into a thread on OpenInverter where I took mine apart. That’s separate from my build thread there.

https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=77592#p77592

My project used a split 60kWh. Things to note -
Keep the split in the centre of the pack as Nissan designed it.
My split has 2m of HV and BMS extension. Under load, if I accelerate hard, LeafSpy shows a large voltage drop on the first cell of the 2nd pack. I guess this is because of the extra resistance in the cable that the BMS wasn’t expecting. This can lead to a momentary loss of power. Normal acceleration is fine though.
I’ve done 3500 miles since converting.

You probably know this already, but those BMS wires still carry 400V, so a short can be very dangerous. Hope you get it sorted.

Something to investigate - the version of OS on your device.

This occurred to me before but I thought I’d covered it because I’ve always used 2 different devices iphone and iPad. iPhone is 26.4.2. iPad is 18.7.9. Since they were different but both failed to connect I put aside that idea.

But this morning I dug out an old smashed screen iPhone running 15.8.4 and it connected first time after I turned Bluetooth off / on.

A couple more tries and still worked.

This is not a comprehensive proof of anything. It might just be lucky coincidence. I’m out for a while now, but if it regularly connects when I get back home for more testing, it’s the start of identifying the root cause.

In my case it worked for a year with no issue. Never had to think about it, just connected within a few seconds.

Known issue is that early Oled included an extra termination resistor. This is not to CANbus spec, but system still worked fine with this present.

I’m no CANbus expert, but if you start doing measurements you find that resistance between can hi and low, with oled in circuit is 40ohms, instead of correct 60ohms. But even with oled removed (and returning system to an in spec 60 ohms - no joy.
Note - I have no idea if your oled is a later one with the resistor correctly omitted.

I need to get back to it at some point but I ran out of steam going round in circles eliminating devices and rewiring sections.

Probably next thing will be to spend more time on different areas checking hi and low against ground throughout the system to see if there’s a voltage drop that might be to blame.

I’ve also got an ESP32 / arduino running savvycan that will read can data. So whether that will help pinpoint a problem I don’t know.

I do know I won’t be confident long term not being able to review the mV variation on my cells. I have 1 that’s stubbornly low and I need to keep an eye on him.

3D printed a clip together case, then glued to the guage.

I’m left with 2 thoughts, neither of which I know how to progress as they are guesses and could be wrong.

1. there’s something in my system corrupting can data which makes the VCU unable to process it and so doesn’t send anything useful to the LeLink2. But I’ve removed all peripheral CANbus devices. It only leaves major lumps like PDM, battery BMS.
   Is this theory a possibility? I need inside knowledge of how the VCU might behave in such a potential corrupted data situation.

2. there’s a fault of some sort internal to the VCU not related to anything connected to it. Is it possible for it to provide power and canbus voltage but prevent the lelink2 from connecting to LeafSpy?
   Again I need knowledge that’s not available to me. Are there any tests I can do to prove this?

Whatever it is it’s 99% failed. But twice this morning (out of dozens of tests) it connected, but with nothing obvious that I did to trigger the success.

On the first time it worked I shutdown LeafSpy app and reopened, but would not connect.
2nd time it worked I tried pulling the LeLink2 and returning it, but it would not reconnect.
@isak, any ideas?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/LELink-Configurable-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B0755N61PW

LeLink2.
Think there’s a ‘1’ version aswell out there but I bought the prebuilt loom from Resolve and they included the 2 vers. They look similar, but zoom in to see a small 2 in the logo.

I’ve seen others may have had a failed oled.
If you don’t have LeafSpy setup it’s worth doing that as another way of gaining insight into the system. Having said that mine isn’t working right now after having worked for a year for reasons I don’t understand.

Based on old screen grabs of my system as reported by LeafSpy 378v should be about 80% SOC, so that’s not low.

Never seen a PDM like that. Not saying it’s not going to work, but you’d need to check coolant flows ok.

My system has been driving for a year now and have used LeafSpy fine.

Recently I found it would not connect. I’ve investigated as much as I can, but am stuck for what to do next.

Symptom - turn car on, LeLink2 shows red light but does not connect to mobile device.

Checks and tests:

LeLink2 works in an original Nissan Leaf. So that’s fine. But I also have a new one and that also does not solve problem.

I’ve removed any CANbus peripheral devices so the system is minimal. (Meaning Oled display, my drive status monitor LEDs and ibooster)

I’ve reset system by disconnecting 12v battery in case there’s some part of the system ‘stuck’ in a fault state.

I’ve checked all wiring, plugs etc. wiggled connections when not working and done the same on the rare occasions it springs into life, but can’t find a flaky connection.

I’ve used 2 different iOS devices - my iPad runs an older OS to my phone. My phone works fine with the lelink2 in our original Nissan leaf.

With LeLink2 out of the socket there’s 13v between + / -. And 2.5v and 2.3v between each can wire and ground which I believe is good.

….

This morning I put the system back together and I thought it was fixed. I was regularly getting the connection on my phone through many different tests (takes about 12 seconds usually, but maybe up to 20).

*@isak - if you read this, this was the point where I emailed to say I thought the fault was cleared, but I was wrong.

This was when the system was on, using the ignition key.

My next test was to try charging. No LeafSpy connection.

So reverted back to ignition on, and no connection again. I had made no changes to the system. Seemed as though once it was in a failed state it was stuck there.

I did a full reset and removed the 12v, but stayed not working.

Since that point, no matter what I do I can’t get Leaf Spy to reconnect.

The rest of the system seems to work 100%. Drives, charges, gear changes, oled display, all good. But not LeLink2 / LeafSpy connection.

Any ideas?

Integrated the oled display where my original fuel gauge used to be - left gauage.

The battery charge on the right is a butchered speed hut dial with a different fascia. Not working right now. Might have broken it why I was ‘improving’ it.

ESP32 box to control tally lights. Plus other things.

Here’s my D N R panel I just finished. Matches the other dashboard stuff. Knobs still to be finished off with caps, but all working. Uses ESP32 to monitor CANbus.

@isak - any chance you can increase the file size limit for uploads. It’s too low for my default iPhone images so if I want to upload an image I have to convert and that’s a pain.

It’s not normal to get N206c error message on the display. Try working out what that means.