Something to investigate - the version of OS on your device.

This occurred to me before but I thought I’d covered it because I’ve always used 2 different devices iphone and iPad. iPhone is 26.4.2. iPad is 18.7.9. Since they were different but both failed to connect I put aside that idea.

But this morning I dug out an old smashed screen iPhone running 15.8.4 and it connected first time after I turned Bluetooth off / on.

A couple more tries and still worked.

This is not a comprehensive proof of anything. It might just be lucky coincidence. I’m out for a while now, but if it regularly connects when I get back home for more testing, it’s the start of identifying the root cause.

In my case it worked for a year with no issue. Never had to think about it, just connected within a few seconds.

Known issue is that early Oled included an extra termination resistor. This is not to CANbus spec, but system still worked fine with this present.

I’m no CANbus expert, but if you start doing measurements you find that resistance between can hi and low, with oled in circuit is 40ohms, instead of correct 60ohms. But even with oled removed (and returning system to an in spec 60 ohms - no joy.
Note - I have no idea if your oled is a later one with the resistor correctly omitted.

I need to get back to it at some point but I ran out of steam going round in circles eliminating devices and rewiring sections.

Probably next thing will be to spend more time on different areas checking hi and low against ground throughout the system to see if there’s a voltage drop that might be to blame.

I’ve also got an ESP32 / arduino running savvycan that will read can data. So whether that will help pinpoint a problem I don’t know.

I do know I won’t be confident long term not being able to review the mV variation on my cells. I have 1 that’s stubbornly low and I need to keep an eye on him.

3D printed a clip together case, then glued to the guage.

I’m left with 2 thoughts, neither of which I know how to progress as they are guesses and could be wrong.

1. there’s something in my system corrupting can data which makes the VCU unable to process it and so doesn’t send anything useful to the LeLink2. But I’ve removed all peripheral CANbus devices. It only leaves major lumps like PDM, battery BMS.
   Is this theory a possibility? I need inside knowledge of how the VCU might behave in such a potential corrupted data situation.

2. there’s a fault of some sort internal to the VCU not related to anything connected to it. Is it possible for it to provide power and canbus voltage but prevent the lelink2 from connecting to LeafSpy?
   Again I need knowledge that’s not available to me. Are there any tests I can do to prove this?

Whatever it is it’s 99% failed. But twice this morning (out of dozens of tests) it connected, but with nothing obvious that I did to trigger the success.

On the first time it worked I shutdown LeafSpy app and reopened, but would not connect.
2nd time it worked I tried pulling the LeLink2 and returning it, but it would not reconnect.
@isak, any ideas?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/LELink-Configurable-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B0755N61PW

LeLink2.
Think there’s a ‘1’ version aswell out there but I bought the prebuilt loom from Resolve and they included the 2 vers. They look similar, but zoom in to see a small 2 in the logo.

I’ve seen others may have had a failed oled.
If you don’t have LeafSpy setup it’s worth doing that as another way of gaining insight into the system. Having said that mine isn’t working right now after having worked for a year for reasons I don’t understand.

Based on old screen grabs of my system as reported by LeafSpy 378v should be about 80% SOC, so that’s not low.

Never seen a PDM like that. Not saying it’s not going to work, but you’d need to check coolant flows ok.

My system has been driving for a year now and have used LeafSpy fine.

Recently I found it would not connect. I’ve investigated as much as I can, but am stuck for what to do next.

Symptom - turn car on, LeLink2 shows red light but does not connect to mobile device.

Checks and tests:

LeLink2 works in an original Nissan Leaf. So that’s fine. But I also have a new one and that also does not solve problem.

I’ve removed any CANbus peripheral devices so the system is minimal. (Meaning Oled display, my drive status monitor LEDs and ibooster)

I’ve reset system by disconnecting 12v battery in case there’s some part of the system ‘stuck’ in a fault state.

I’ve checked all wiring, plugs etc. wiggled connections when not working and done the same on the rare occasions it springs into life, but can’t find a flaky connection.

I’ve used 2 different iOS devices - my iPad runs an older OS to my phone. My phone works fine with the lelink2 in our original Nissan leaf.

With LeLink2 out of the socket there’s 13v between + / -. And 2.5v and 2.3v between each can wire and ground which I believe is good.

….

This morning I put the system back together and I thought it was fixed. I was regularly getting the connection on my phone through many different tests (takes about 12 seconds usually, but maybe up to 20).

*@isak - if you read this, this was the point where I emailed to say I thought the fault was cleared, but I was wrong.

This was when the system was on, using the ignition key.

My next test was to try charging. No LeafSpy connection.

So reverted back to ignition on, and no connection again. I had made no changes to the system. Seemed as though once it was in a failed state it was stuck there.

I did a full reset and removed the 12v, but stayed not working.

Since that point, no matter what I do I can’t get Leaf Spy to reconnect.

The rest of the system seems to work 100%. Drives, charges, gear changes, oled display, all good. But not LeLink2 / LeafSpy connection.

Any ideas?

Integrated the oled display where my original fuel gauge used to be - left gauage.

The battery charge on the right is a butchered speed hut dial with a different fascia. Not working right now. Might have broken it why I was ‘improving’ it.

ESP32 box to control tally lights. Plus other things.

Here’s my D N R panel I just finished. Matches the other dashboard stuff. Knobs still to be finished off with caps, but all working. Uses ESP32 to monitor CANbus.

@isak - any chance you can increase the file size limit for uploads. It’s too low for my default iPhone images so if I want to upload an image I have to convert and that’s a pain.

It’s not normal to get N206c error message on the display. Try working out what that means.

I used the common Bosch brake ibooster used on many cars in my conversion. There’s no specific integration required if you get one that isn’t Can controlled.
There’s a great detailed write up on EV Create with a list of units. Also another list on OpenInverter.

Not very elegant, but you can use the conversion / adaptors that Leaf owners use. Not cheap though. There’s a few versions around. I know in the UK, there’s a Leaf forum that has had good results with the EV Boy type.

Regarding wiring, I didn’t use the 3rd (square one) of the 3 connectors on the outside of the battery that supplied the car’s hvac stuff. I just cut that section including the socket off the aluminium metal work. So any wiring that connected to that on the inside of the battery was left out in my build.
It’s possible in the future I may get back to wanting heating, but I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it.

Pictures are always good. Please post!

Single biggest time sink for me was the complication of more than 1 battery box. I don’t know LR architectures, but if you can consolidate to only 2 instead of 3 you’ll appreciate it.

Hi @isak, I have a CANbus question not covered in the documents. Where are the termination resistors in the bus? Is the Resolve VCU on a stub, or is it the end of the bus with a resistor built in? Same question about the OLED.
The reason for my question is I am switching my brake vacuum pump over to be an electric ibooster instead. The version I have has to see a CANbus network. It doesn’t need any CAN instructions to work, just needs to be the bus. For my first test, I’ve spliced between the VCU and OLED because it was easy, and this works, but this may not be the right thing to do. So I’d like to know where the best place to splice in my device is.
After this I do have some other CANbus things I’m going to try, so will probably add at least one more stub after I do the ibooster.
Thanks

@KoduEV said in Vw T2:

very nice,,what battery pack you use..OEM leaf battery or the CATL..?

Nissan leaf - 2022-ish.

Just be aware that 60 / 62kWh in Leafs are very different to the early 24 / 30 / 40 architecture. You’ll find stuff in my build thread and a separate tear down thread which you can find aswell.