very cool project, brumby looks like a great platform nice work!

Finally got the wheels turning, LeafSpy connected for long enough to do some DTC fault finding. Errors reported as expected when disconnecting different parts of the system, only when the inverter was disconnected no change in DTC.
So I checked the inverter connector for continuity and there was a wire break on the ground. Nice easy solution despite lots of investigation.
Time to find space for the batteries.

I tried those troubleshooting steps yesterday.
LeLink2 connects within a few seconds to another app every time without fail.

Leafspy connected once in about 2 hours, whether CAN bus was connected or not.

I’m going to try another reader because the inconsistency is so irritating, and I’ve read plenty of posts around the connection between LeLink and Leafspy.

Would it help to look at the update logs for Leafspy and see if one of them lines up with when you first started getting connection issues?

Cleared the codes today to try and power back on but LeLink wouldn’t connect again, gutted. Going to try another reader as it’s connecting fine to another app and read similar issues online between leafspy and lelink.

The first time it did connect and managed to “read ECU versions” but didn’t get much of a readout, bit concerning but not sure until I get a reliable connection. Can anyone share a screenshot of leafspy ecu readout on there resolve setup?

@badkins thank you for that! That does make sense. I recently discovered a 12v battery I was using was measuring about 9v, should have checked. Will try clearing DTC and a proper power cycle to see what goes away. Cheers

ian this is an odd one. I tried a brand new LELink2 a few days ago and it worked fine. Two days later, not working. With no changes to the system this is very strange.
The intermittency you have described is very odd.
I'm going to try two things, which you might like to do too.
Firstly, another app that can connect and read CAN data, to see if the intermittency could be to do with LeafSpy.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/engine-link-le/id1222128102?ls=1&mt=8 is one that is recommended for my LELink2.

Secondly, attempting to connect to the LeLink without it being connected to the CAN bus so just power. Not sure if this is possible but could indicate whether CAN traffic affects bluetooth connection.

Managed to get leafspy connected. Reads out the cell voltages so I guess BMS CAN working. Unsure how to test PDM and inverter but will look into the app instructions a bit more.
Anyone understand these error messages before I get into the documentation?

@badkins I’ll get some photos to you soon, my first proper welding job too, pretty simple if you use some thicker material, I’ve got a hobby gas mig welder and that’s doing the job fine.
Good thinking re. the motor ground, I’ve actually got a connection from the inverter casting to battery 0 V so will be sure to check continuity but I don’t think that’s it.
Not using the truck radiator, the PDM is there cos it’s the best space I could find for it with my limited fabrication skills, plan to mount a radiator horizontally above the wheel arch, being EV a small one should do with a decent fan is my thinking.

LeLink2 ordered and will try that likely next week to see what is available on the CAN Bus.

In the meantime, here are some CAN frames if anyone has any wisdom they would like to share on which CAN IDs correspond to what parts of the system.
I found this page https://github.com/dalathegreat/leaf_can_bus_messages but can't seem to link the IDs described to the data I have captured.

@isak if possible it would be great to know if the sequence below indicates what is wrong, I have a text file of the whole sequence I can send you. This is a lot of work so no problem if not, but would be great to know what each ID corresponds to. Thank you

Will see what leafspy says next week, failing that I will be ordering a new OLED.

The PDM doesn’t clear the firewall lol, at least if your adapter plates are the same thickness as mine. Hence why I removed mine, can send some pictures of the motor and PDM mounts if that helps

Nice work @badkins , it will be good to be able to compare notes on the Toyota front. Loving the flat bed btw

That’s ideal thank you

@ianlighting could you let me know what Bluetooth reader you are using for leafspy so I can make sure I buy a compatible one? Cheers

Good idea yeah I’ll definitely look into leafspy. I saw your post yeah that is odd.

Thanks Ian. That’s helpful. From what I remember last time the system powered properly it was around 80% which checks out. Good point, I will make sure to check coolant flow in a future test.

Today I lifted the PDM out and mounted it horizontally, the system still didn’t power up properly.

I also recorded some more can frames so will look at the payload and see if isak can shed some light on what is missing from the data.
I still suspect the OLED but prefer to get more facts instead of problem solving just by replacing parts. Let’s see.

Still debugging, reaching out for advice if anyone has any.
Just looking at what has changed between the bench test and engine bay test at the minute.

-PDM separation from the inverter and its orientation. Anyone else run their system with the PDM mounted vertically as above?
I have connected the inverter and motor castings to 0V since the stack is now separated.

-also connected a logic analyser to the OLED CAN H and CAN L, to get a sense of whether can frames are corrupted. With limited success, likely down to test setup.
I intend to go through a process of elimination, and if every node on the bus is chatting, then I'll assume the issue isn't CAN related, since it worked before.
As seen below, no chatter on one of the CAN lines, this I think is down to the logic analyser trigger level. more work to do here.

-Another picture shows HV is reaching the inverter, through the pre-charge contactor+resistor, but the system stops there and the second contactor does not close. Anyone think 378 V is too low causing the system to stop there?

-Lastly, the OLED has been through a bit of grief, I separated the boards to add a board to board connector, and re-fitted the can and power connector. This rework could be the culprit and I suspect I will be replacing the OLED soon. I think the OLED CAN board is an STM32 and I know STMs are specifically sensitive to static.

Thanks, any pointers are appreciated.

@isak please could you advise any extra steps I could try like clearing/manual resetting the microcontroller to enable connection, or if any of the configuration solder links might affect connection?

Alternatively I have access to an electronics lab if you could guide me through firmware update using JTAG/Atmel studio if this is an option. My soldering should be good enough if this is possible.

I would also be happy to trade my controller in for a micro-usb or usb-c model.
Thank you

Bench test a while back

Came to the forum for some technical advice but saw the build thread space and thought I'd share my build. I'm sure it will be useful as I have teething issues and is also fun to share

Started my project around 4 years ago lol and just getting to the first turn of the wheels test.
Started with a 1983 toyota hilux and 2015 leaf 24kWh.

just about got all the drivetrain components into the engine bay for the test.
Tested the drivetrain on the bench a year or so ago and worked brilliantly, but after connecting to the truck something isn't working, debugging in progress.