@isak, I’m working on plans to do a conversion with a 62kwh pack. I need to split it in two, hence I need to extend the BMS wires. Do you have any experience splitting the pack and can the extension harnesses, you sell, be used. Any good suggestions, ideas or previous experience with the 62kwh pack is greatly appreciated.

[image: 1791858426370-img_6227.jpg] [image: 1791858482099-img_6234-resized.jpg] [image: 1791858700500-img_e9147.jpg] We then pressed the two ends together and welded along the seam.

Hey @Syncro, I have a similar issue. I just finished connecting all the low and high voltage wiring using the Resolve wiring harness. Before the HV was connected, the OLED would flash "Resolve-EV", then go black (which I am told is normal behavior). Now that I have the HV power and CAN connected, my OLED is just black. I can't get it to come on. I don't think just the screen is the issue, because I also tried getting it to go into Drive and spinning the motor, but that wasn't working either. Any update on your issue, or what fixed it? Thanks!

We have just launched a new Amoled display with high brightness that has the possibility for FW updates via our website and will receive many more screens in the future. More to come! For more info check out the below links! Product page: https://resolve-ev.com/products/resolve-display?Aluminium+Bezel=Black Play around with the demo webpage: https://resolve-ev.com/resolve_display_demo Documentation available here: https://resolve-ev.com/docs/resolve_display/

We have just launched the Resolve Display, not to be confused with the OLED display. The product page: https://resolve-ev.com/products/resolve-display?Aluminium+Bezel=Black For more discussion check out the Resolve Display category: https://forum.resolve-ev.com/category/18/resolve-display

@Saabel Great project. I did something similar with a dune buggy by replacing the centre of the frame with a frame to hold the Leaf battery. For my next conversion I am hoping to use a 2023 214 hp Leaf motor and stack with the Resolve controller. I looks like if I do this I will not be able to use the Chademo port for DC charging. Anton Arnqvist at Resolve mentioned that he thought you had solved this issue. Is there any workaround that would allow DC charging? I really appreciate the fast charging on my other two conversions but for this one I want the 214hp motor which was only available after 2019, I also want to use a 62kw battery. Any thoughts would be helpful. [image: 1790955450218-img_20240509_132351395_hdr-resized.jpg] [image: 1790955454718-img_20240509_132408769_hdr-resized.jpg]

Hello, I like your project and I see on the numberplate that your from Germany. Im going to convert my Opel Ascona B and wanted to ask you nicely if you can tell something about the TÜV who you worked with an what you had to do to make it street legal.

my car suddenly stop and when i turn on the precharge is not turning on what you think is the problem the battery is giving 366V but inverter is showing 4V[image: 1790615057051-whatsapp-image-2026-09-28-at-7.21.39-pm.jpeg] [image: 1790615057904-whatsapp-image-2026-09-28-at-7.21.20-pm.jpeg]

You probably know this already, but those BMS wires still carry 400V, so a short can be very dangerous. Hope you get it sorted.

@isak I have swapped my 3.3kw pdm with a 6.6 from AZEO. tested it. worked fine. then did a rookie mistake and accidantly conncted my HV heater to the A/C terminals but reversed polarity. since then it seems like precharge isn't happening. get 44v DC to DC code error on inverter. this is the report from the console:[image: 1789800652617-screenshot-6.png] [image: 1789800653228-screenshot-7.png] [image: 1789800654000-screenshot-8.png] and DTCs:[image: 1789800742760-1000025257.jpg] the f/s charger relay error codeis a code I carry over from before and I suspect it's related to my YAste Can Bridge comunication issue. I can try and install my old 3.3 PDM and see if it's a PDM issue or a contactore or precharge resistor issue? before PDM swap everything was working fine. just had this charger relay code that only affected regen braking. whats your thoughts? cheers

I have managed to fix everything but the regen braking. I'm considering getting rid of the can bridges and getting by MBS flushed with a dedicated firmware for yaste 62kwh. that should fix everything

Hello Guys, Im planing the conversion of my Opel Ascona B and im always wonderring what transmission and differential I should use. When I start calculating the torque, its just seems like too much. Or is it something I shouldnt care so much about, because I wont be driving with the high amount of torque all the time ? What are your expirence with this topic ? Best regards Vitus

@dnpz94 they look to be back in stock now

Hey all! Working on converting my 1991 240sx with 2021 Leaf S Plus components. I bought the 240 chassis with most of the OEM wiring stripped, so I am going to be doing a racecar style, simple 12 V wiring setup. I was wondering if anybody has a recommendation for a good wiring kit that they have used with the Resolve controller with good success? I was considering either the American Autowire 510008 (20 Circuit, $465) or Painless Classic Chassis Harness PN 10102 (21 Circuit, $283). Thanks for any advice you may have!

Been driving my Jeep around now for a couple months, super fun. Drive system is working great. Still in the testing phase for all systems but it seems to be up to the task. Appears to have about 80 miles of range. Haven't tested the 4x4 system yet, soon.

Cfalkenburg nope, my problem wasn't the 12volt battery, it was the drive battery. Something wrong I couldn't figure out so I bought another complete battery pack, 40kwh, working just fine.

Checking out your build - looks great. I am doing the 1980 toyota build in the forum and planning my engine support design. My build is like yours with the leaf motor driving a driveshaft. I have been taking close look at the photo of the engine support that you fabricated out of rectangular stock. My engine like yours has the engine mount connection that, like yours, is facing towards the front of the vehicle where it can be bolted into the engine support. Questions: Do you have any tips on how to design a similar engine support? What type of rectangular stock did you use and type of welder? The angled supports on the side - do those bolt in to the existing rubber engine mounts or did you find something that worked better? Did you lower the engine into the car and hook it up to the transmission/drive shaft and level it out with a engine jack and do measurements and weld the cross piece while the engine was in place or did you remove the engine before welding. Thank you in advance. Brian

I am trying to figure out exactly where to put the current sensor in my build. The battery schematic from nissan says it goes on the wire that runs from the most positive terminal in the positive contactor in in the junction box/precharge box. The photos of the open battery case shows the current sensor being mounted to the service plug which is located between the two internal battery halves of the traction leaf battery. To me it does not see that it matters which location the current sensor is as the current passes the same through both connections/areas. Can share photos and battery schematic for anyone that can give me any input. Thanks in advance

Does anyone know if I can run the 40kwh leaf battery motor and inverter with an earlier PMD to get chademo charging? @isak

very cool project, brumby looks like a great platform nice work!