Been driving my Jeep around now for a couple months, super fun. Drive system is working great. Still in the testing phase for all systems but it seems to be up to the task. Appears to have about 80 miles of range. Haven't tested the 4x4 system yet, soon.
Finally got the wheels turning, LeafSpy connected for long enough to do some DTC fault finding. Errors reported as expected when disconnecting different parts of the system, only when the inverter was disconnected no change in DTC.
So I checked the inverter connector for continuity and there was a wire break on the ground. Nice easy solution despite lots of investigation.
Time to find space for the batteries.
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Since April 8th it's back to the road!
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Everything works fine. It drives great. And I have to say thanks to Isak for the great resolve EV conversion kit!
With the 40kWh battery pack the range is about 200-250km when driving in the city.
Checking out your build - looks great. I am doing the 1980 toyota build in the forum and planning my engine support design. My build is like yours with the leaf motor driving a driveshaft. I have been taking close look at the photo of the engine support that you fabricated out of rectangular stock. My engine like yours has the engine mount connection that, like yours, is facing towards the front of the vehicle where it can be bolted into the engine support. Questions: Do you have any tips on how to design a similar engine support? What type of rectangular stock did you use and type of welder? The angled supports on the side - do those bolt in to the existing rubber engine mounts or did you find something that worked better? Did you lower the engine into the car and hook it up to the transmission/drive shaft and level it out with a engine jack and do measurements and weld the cross piece while the engine was in place or did you remove the engine before welding. Thank you in advance. Brian
Something to investigate - the version of OS on your device.
This occurred to me before but I thought I’d covered it because I’ve always used 2 different devices iphone and iPad. iPhone is 26.4.2. iPad is 18.7.9. Since they were different but both failed to connect I put aside that idea.
But this morning I dug out an old smashed screen iPhone running 15.8.4 and it connected first time after I turned Bluetooth off / on.
A couple more tries and still worked.
This is not a comprehensive proof of anything. It might just be lucky coincidence. I’m out for a while now, but if it regularly connects when I get back home for more testing, it’s the start of identifying the root cause.
@isak please could you advise any extra steps I could try like clearing/manual resetting the microcontroller to enable connection, or if any of the configuration solder links might affect connection?
Alternatively I have access to an electronics lab if you could guide me through firmware update using JTAG/Atmel studio if this is an option. My soldering should be good enough if this is possible.
I would also be happy to trade my controller in for a micro-usb or usb-c model.
Thank you
Hi, @EVBrumby , Do you manage to fixing the issue related to Yaste CAN bridge?, I am planing my build and interested to know more about issues related to 62kwh Yaste battery kit, ?
I am trying to figure out exactly where to put the current sensor in my build. The battery schematic from nissan says it goes on the wire that runs from the most positive terminal in the positive contactor in in the junction box/precharge box.
The photos of the open battery case shows the current sensor being mounted to the service plug which is located between the two internal battery halves of the traction leaf battery.
To me it does not see that it matters which location the current sensor is as the current passes the same through both connections/areas.
Can share photos and battery schematic for anyone that can give me any input.
Thanks in advance
Cfalkenburg nope, my problem wasn't the 12volt battery, it was the drive battery. Something wrong I couldn't figure out so I bought another complete battery pack, 40kwh, working just fine.
Hi!
Yeah, the battery heater is not enabled. In the repair manuals they state they start up at -20 C and stop at -10 C. And with them being hard to fit for most builds i never enabled the functionality
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Yes both pot values are read and a short to 12V or 5V goes outside the specified range and is treated as 0 torque.
Nice to hear
It's hardware differences that prevent the use of chademo on the later Leaf PDMs chademo is getting phased out and we are looking into some other charging solutions
