Been driving my Jeep around now for a couple months, super fun. Drive system is working great. Still in the testing phase for all systems but it seems to be up to the task. Appears to have about 80 miles of range. Haven't tested the 4x4 system yet, soon.
Checking out your build - looks great. I am doing the 1980 toyota build in the forum and planning my engine support design. My build is like yours with the leaf motor driving a driveshaft. I have been taking close look at the photo of the engine support that you fabricated out of rectangular stock. My engine like yours has the engine mount connection that, like yours, is facing towards the front of the vehicle where it can be bolted into the engine support. Questions: Do you have any tips on how to design a similar engine support? What type of rectangular stock did you use and type of welder? The angled supports on the side - do those bolt in to the existing rubber engine mounts or did you find something that worked better? Did you lower the engine into the car and hook it up to the transmission/drive shaft and level it out with a engine jack and do measurements and weld the cross piece while the engine was in place or did you remove the engine before welding. Thank you in advance. Brian
I am trying to figure out exactly where to put the current sensor in my build. The battery schematic from nissan says it goes on the wire that runs from the most positive terminal in the positive contactor in in the junction box/precharge box.
The photos of the open battery case shows the current sensor being mounted to the service plug which is located between the two internal battery halves of the traction leaf battery.
To me it does not see that it matters which location the current sensor is as the current passes the same through both connections/areas.
Can share photos and battery schematic for anyone that can give me any input.
Thanks in advance
Since April 8th it's back to the road!
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Everything works fine. It drives great. And I have to say thanks to Isak for the great resolve EV conversion kit!
With the 40kWh battery pack the range is about 200-250km when driving in the city.
Finally got the wheels turning, LeafSpy connected for long enough to do some DTC fault finding. Errors reported as expected when disconnecting different parts of the system, only when the inverter was disconnected no change in DTC.
So I checked the inverter connector for continuity and there was a wire break on the ground. Nice easy solution despite lots of investigation.
Time to find space for the batteries.
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Hi Everyone,
I have a 30ft classic launch which until now has run on diesel, I am pulling that out and repowering with a Nissan Leaf system, and 62kWh battery, and using the Resolve Marine Controller and Wiring Loom.
Has anyone done a similar conversion anywhere?
I am really struggling to find someone who has done it before, certainly not here in NZ.
Look forward to hearing from anyone, regards, Di
Pictures are always good. Please post!
Single biggest time sink for me was the complication of more than 1 battery box. I don’t know LR architectures, but if you can consolidate to only 2 instead of 3 you’ll appreciate it.
